1955-1959 Chevy & GMC Task Force Truck Weatherstrip: Trim Groove or Not, Big Window or Small, Vents or No Vents
The 1955-1959 Chevy and GMC "Task Force" pickup is the truck we sell more door hardware for than any other — the four-piece hinge set for it has been our single biggest part by revenue for three months running. Which tells you something: these trucks are getting their doors rebuilt, and a door that's been rebuilt is a door that's about to get new rubber.
(If you want the history of why this truck matters, we wrote that up separately. This is the parts side.)
The rubber on this truck isn't complicated, but it does come in pairs of choices that look identical in a search result and aren't. Here are the four decisions, in the order you'll hit them.
Before anything else: first series or second series?
"1955 Chevy truck" means two different trucks. The 1955 first-series is the last of the 1947-55 "Advance Design" body; the 1955 second-series is the first Task Force. The vendors label the parts that way too — you'll see "1947-1955 1ST Series" on one gasket and "2nd series" on the next. Everything in this guide is second-series, 1955-1959. If your title says 1955 and your cab has the wraparound windshield, you're in the right place. If it doesn't, you want the 1947-55 parts and this isn't your guide.
Decision 1 — Windshield seal: trim groove, or no trim groove?
The single most common wrong order on this truck. Both seals go on the same glass, both go in with the rope-in method. The difference is whether your truck wears the chrome molding around the windshield.
- wcr 407 gm — $65.18. With the trim groove. Precision's own note: "The trim groove requires you to re-use your chrome trim." If your truck has the bright molding around the glass, this is the one — and you need your original molding in hand, because the seal doesn't come with it.
- wbl 407 gm — $60.60. No trim groove. Precision describes it as "a standard black gasket without trim groove." The plain-rubber look. If your truck never had the molding, or you're going for the work-truck finish, this is the one.
- G4051-7 — $93.83, from Fairchild, also "without chrome strip." A second source for the no-groove seal, and we keep real depth on it.
Both Precision listings carry the same caution and we'll repeat it: this seal "is designed to be installed during glass replacement" and Precision recommends a professional auto glass technician. If you're doing it yourself, our rope-in guide covers the general method.
Decision 2 — Back window: small, or large?
The Task Force came with a standard small rear window and a big wraparound one, and the seals are different parts. Precision says it plainly on each listing.
| Window | Part | Lockstrip | Price |
|---|---|---|---|
| Large back window | wkt 5561 lc — "fits the large back window. It includes the chrome lockstrip" | Chrome | $68.71 |
| Large back window | wkt5561-l-gm — large window, black lockstrip | Black | $52.39 |
| Small back window | wkt 4266 sc — "fits the small back window. It includes the chrome lockstrip... 1st & 2nd Series trucks" | Chrome | $48.10 |
| Small back window | wkt 4266 s gm — small window, black lockstrip | Black | $34.34 |
Two things worth noticing. First, the small-window seal is the same part all the way back to 1942 and forward to 1966, so it's the one that's easy to find and the one people accidentally order for a big-window truck. Second, the lockstrip is included with all four — you're choosing chrome or black, not buying it separately.
Not sure which window you have? Stand behind the truck. If the glass wraps around the corners of the cab, it's the large one.
Decision 3 — Door seals: on the door, or on the body?
Three ways to do this, and they're genuinely different parts.
Clip-in, per side, mounts on the door. Precision's second-series door seals: dwl 1110 55 gm (driver, $42.31) and dwr 1110 55 gm (passenger, $36.79). Both say the same useful thing: "mounts on the door with the pre-applied clips and now accommodates both original and aftermarket door clip spacing." That last clause matters if your doors have been replaced or re-drilled at some point in the last seventy years — and most have.
The whole door in one box. dk 1110 55 — $190.96. Precision: "Door kit consists of: Door seals, beltlines and glass run channels. This kit is for the left and right front doors." If the door is apart anyway, this is the seals, the window sweeps and the run channels together, which is the same teardown three times over if you buy them one at a time.
Cut-to-length, budget, either series. KG3100 from Fairchild — $50.59, "Includes: G3100*2 (2 pcs)... each 15 ft lengths," fits 1947-1959. Not molded to the door — you cut it — but it's the one door seal that covers both series, and we stock it deep.
One to ask about before you order: dwp 1110 55 gm ($62.72) is a glue-in pair that mounts on the body, and Precision describes it as being "for the rear doors." That's a Suburban or panel description, not a pickup one. If you've got a two-door pickup, use the clip-in pair above; if you've got rear doors, email us with a photo and we'll confirm.
Decision 4 — Belt weatherstrip: with vent windows, or without?
The window sweeps at the top of the door (belt weatherstrip, "fuzzies," beltline molding — same thing) come in two lengths depending on whether the door has a vent window. The vendors print it right on the listing.
- With vent windows (stock): Fairchild KG2072-1 — $69.91, "Inner & Outer... (4 pcs) Notes: With Vents." Outer-only version KG2070-2 — $69.91, 2 pcs. Precision's equivalent is wfk 1110 55 a — $87.39, "pre-installed clips on the left & right doors to sweep the inside & outside of the glass."
- Vent windows removed (one-piece glass): Fairchild KG2130 — $100.27, "Inner & Outer... (4 pcs) Notes: without Vent Window." Or Precision wfk 1110 55 vwd — $117.47, "for vehicles where the vent assembly has been permanently removed. Rubber covered steel core with a felt lining. Inner/Outer, Left and Right Hand 4 piece kit."
If you've done the one-piece-glass conversion, the stock sweeps are too short. If you haven't, the no-vent sweeps are too long. Look at the door before you click.
While you're there: GRB 1110 55-TRUCK — $56.99 — is the glass run channel, sold as a single piece that "presses into the top and back door channel and is secured with weatherstrip adhesive glue (not included). This single piece fits in the top and back of either the driver or passenger doors." Two doors, two pieces. Precision lists it for 1955-1958 specifically.
Vent window rubber: the vent glass seal kit for this truck is out of stock as this is written. Rather than point you at an empty page, we'll say: email us and we'll tell you when it's back.
The one you'll forget: hood-to-cowl
cs1110-55 — $18.39. Mounts under the hood on the cowl with factory-style clips and seals between hood and cowl. It's the seal that keeps rain out of the cowl vent and off the firewall, and it's the cheapest part in this guide. Fairchild's version is G4062-3, $40.47. We wrote up why it matters here.
Or do the whole cab at once
ws7007 — $459.79, Fairchild's complete set. Their description is specific about what it is and isn't: "For use on trucks without trim groove for molding... For use with 1955 2nd design (late production) models." Contents, per Fairchild: windshield seal without trim groove, rear window seal "(trim to fit / standard or deluxe cab)," both door frame seals with clips and mitered corners, four door windowfelts (two inner, two outer), the upper run channel set, the division-post re-lining kit, and the four-piece vent window seal set.
Read that first line twice. It's the no-trim-groove windshield seal. If your truck has the chrome molding, buy the pieces instead and start with wcr 407 gm.
If the doors are coming off anyway
This is the part of the truck that's actually driving our numbers, so it would be strange not to mention it.
- cx1349/cx1350x2 — $257.60. All four hinges, upper and lower, both doors, "heavy duty steel... black powder coated to either paint or leave alone." Second-series 1955-59, Chevrolet and GMC. This is the part that fixes the door that sags, drops, and chews through every new seal you put on it. New rubber on worn hinges is money spent twice.
- cx1275/cx1276 — $92.91. Both door latches, plated, "made to open door easier and close more securely than worn out or broken latches." A door that latches properly is a door that compresses its seal properly.
- cx1040 — $32.19, chrome dome lamp. Cheap, visible, and it's the thing everyone notices when they open the door you just rebuilt.
Order of work
Hinges and latches first, so the door sits where it's finally going to sit. Then the door — seals, sweeps and run channels share one teardown, which is why the dk 1110 55 kit exists. Glass seals last, on the glass shop's schedule, because the windshield and back window gaskets go in with the glass. Hood-to-cowl any time you have ten minutes.
Browse further
Door seals · Windshield seals · Rear window seals · Beltline moldings · Window channels & felt · Free vehicle catalogs
And if you're not sure which windshield seal your truck takes — send us a photo of the glass from outside. Trim groove or not is a five-second answer for us and a two-week return for you.